42 days (and curried breakfasts) in India

First 24 hours in Kolkata

We should have arrived into Kolkata at 8am on Friday 22nd but it was around 11.30am with Nikon being late for work. The train station is a huge, handsome red building with a very easy walk to the pre-paid taxi rank. Absolute bedlam but I managed to get a lift to the YWCA after an interesting journey across the Howrah bridge and along wide roads and streets - Kolkata resembles a city, unlike Delhi.

At the YWCA, I was shown to a quiet room beside another lady on the ground floor. Off the street, it is arranged around a tennis courtyard and much of the noise is blocked out by trees and private housing. I sorted my belongings, money and passport on my bed anf then went to a cafe around the corner for an expensive brunch. I returned to my room to change and wash and before I headed out to Mother House, I placed most of cash in my suitcase.

I walked (surprise,surprise) to MH on AJC Bose Road, which is located in a pretty poor area of the city. Normally on Friday's the House is open but the nuns had something on this particular afternoon. Sweaty and sweaty, I headed back to Park Street via a church to get some relief from the sun. I washed my clothes and made tea and soup back at my room.

Breakfast is included in the price, simple but fine - 3 slices of bread, butter, jam, a banana, an egg and tea. I headed to MH again which was open but only to look around. The display on Mother Theresa's life is fascinating and it is quite something to look at her sandals, her saree and other personal belongings. The room which holds her tomb is right on the main road so it's noisey but apt for someone who spent her time with these people.

The next registration for volunteers was today, Monday at 3pm but I didn't go due to intention and circumstances. I don't feel I need anymore "tests" before I leave India. Anyway, I purchased a tin of milk powder for a street kid outside the House and had something chucked at me further along the road as I was making my way back to Park Street.

I had a leisurely lunch in my room and was contemplating some more, just a little more, retail therapy, when I decided to check my money which I quickly discovered wasn't there. So, I've broken my wrist for the first time and had a fair amount of money stolen from me for thr first time. I'm not sure when it happened but I feel it may have been on my first day perhaps when I was popping into the loo which is next door...I've had my case open...but someone knew where that money was.

The owners were distressed, especially for the reputation of the place. I couldn't quite understand the security man's interest in this, I have my suspicions...I've managed to withdraw money today but what a pallava it's been. Roll on Friday!

Okay, over and out for another session. Joe, I've managed to get into Typepad with no bother as you will have gathered!

Varanasi backdated

After another fairly epic train journey into India's holiest city, I arrived with much relief onto a packed and very warm Varanasi train station. I lugged my suitcase up stairs, across a long footbridge and probably over a hundred set of toes...and got to the tourist office as advised by all good guidebooks. A female monk kept an eye on my case as I sought info on hotels in an office next door, where they gave me so much information I was confused.com ! Returning to the main office, I relayed this to the South American nun/monk who recommended her hotel - she showed her key which was legitimate so I thought "Why not?" Again, avoiding the touts who swarm the stations, we walked away from the train station and picked an auto-rickshaw to the Hotel Ajaya in an area called Lahurabir. It was fine and certainly the staff were very kind and courteous on my arrival and throughout my stay!

Varanasi wasn't or hasn't been what I expected. It is much larger and in the humidity and with constant hassle, I found it very hard work at times. On the Sunday, I wandered around my local area and even checked another hotel which was nicer but didn't have the same atmosphere. I did have a delicious vegetable curry and a mixed fruit lassi at a very reasonable price.

On Monday 18th, I rose fairly early and walked into Godaulia, the old town area of Varanasi. I had a lovely curried potato breakfast with two delicious cups of milky masala tea at a recommended cafe. After this I walked to one of the most popular ghats, Dashaswamedh, which was much smaller than I expected with the Ganges very high on the ghat steps. There were no funerals or burning pyres despite what the annoying touts tell you, so I wandered around the dark and atmospheric lanes of Godaulia, in search of the Golden Temple - Vishwanath. After an exhausting hour, I came across the even smaller lanes of the Golden Temple where one of the many police made it clear I wouln't be entering with my rucksack....I purchased some bangles for myself and my Dad (no, just kidding!), for Lynne and mum, then desperately went in search for sugared drinks.

In short, I did too much walking this day. In the late afternoon, I walked to the station to get my ticket for Calcutta. I met two Japanese chaps who had travelled on the same train as me from Agra....two power cuts and a very helpful ticket purchase later, I left the station, took a wrong turning, got lost and in the middle of another power-cut, took a cycle rickshaw ride back to the hotel - yet another bumpy ride after which my arm was  glad of the rest.

Tuesday, I was exhausted and only ventured out in the early afternoon to go to the Hindu University museum which houses a small but beautiful collection of Indian art. A very considerate rickshaw driver took me to Asi ghat where I had a lovely view of Ganga and there was a real feel for the place which Dashaswamedh didn't have - peaceful and calm. I ate at a recommended restaurant (Vaatika), located at the top of the ghat steps and overlooking the Ganges - green pepper pizza, lemon tea and apple pie with ice-cream - absolutely delicious. I also had some interesting company from a baby rat....with it's momma....I was on my feet and ready to run, but it's probably normal beside such a polluted river!!!! They were scurrying amongst the many plant pots which were placed around the terrace.

It started to rain on Tuesday evening around 8pm and it thundered down the whole night and most of Wednesday morning. This was nice for another lazy morning and when I headed out in the afternoon, I soon found out that the old town was flooded in parts with shop keepers drying out their tiny little shops. The highlight of my day was a trip to a hotel complex for foreigners - a lovely haven with internet, Baskin Robbins, swimming pool etc. I had a  lovely Indian meal - vegetable sizzler with a pot of Tetley before heading back to the hotel.

On the Thursday I whiled the day away quite easily with some photos, bookshop browsing and eating in recommended places (my new catch-word). The hotel manager wanted to have a good talk before I left for the station, wanting to know what I did and how much I earned etc. Being a teacher gets a lot of respect in India...

My Vibhuti express was delayed by just over an hour and praise to the station police who really take care of foreign travellers both on arrival and departure from the station. A porter carried my case this time onto the train where I settled eventually and  chatted with a lovely Indian female from Kolkata. She said her name was Nikon and certainly her English was superb so it was really good to discuss her country and different places that I had been to. I travelled in 3AC, so 3-tiered beds with air-conditioning and had yet another really comfortable train journey in India.

The Taj Mahal

The Tourist Rest House on Katcherie Road in Agra is very nice. From the outside, you wouldn't think so but the rooms are arranged around a leafy courtyard where you have freshly prepared food. My room on the first night was small and I changed on Wednesday. As for my birthday, I couldn't bear the thought of moving too much so I chilled and stayed close to the guest house. I took my punjabi dress material  to  a tailors' in Sadar Bazaar where they agreed to make two outfits for 200 rupees (roughly 83 rupees to the pound) by 10am the next day!

Very satisfied with this, I contined to make plans i.e sight-seeing, for Thursday. I had something to eat with 'lil' Daniel Rowe from Worksop. Daniel has been travelling for 10 months and India is his last stop. Fortunately for him, he decided to come along with myself at 5.30am the next day.

Foreign tourists were the only ones to queue so early and judging the crowds  at 9.30am... it was well worth getting up for. Overall, it has a lovely impact but the building looks so much smaller than you think! It was lovely to have someone to chat to and wander around the Taj with and also to share the hassle with. We stayed for about 3 hours in the grounds but it was worth it - we pay 760 rs where Indian nationals pay 20rs.

For breakfast we walked through the Taj Ganj ( old town) to a recommended hotel called Sheela where I wolfed down honey toast, cheese omelette, a mango lassi and a pot of chai tea. Following this we took a rickety rickshaw to Agra Fort - hilarious not. The 'driver' was about 90 but could fairly cycle however when he started to free wheel on a well tarmacked road, and we picked up speed...mum will know exactly what I was thinking. Then he turned round to Daniel and invited him to cycle the rickshaw, which he did accordingly. Brilliant! The Indians passing by on motor bikes and whatever loved it !

Back at the guest house we chilled with a fizzy drink. Later I collected my punjabi dresses with very baggy trousers, washed more clothes and myself, and after a pleasant dinner with Daniel and a french mademoiselle, I had an early night. I must say that I have had the best rest since I arrived in India but it is going into week 4 and I feel more acclimatised.

Thanks for all the emails mum - I may or may not email tomorrow but if not, will try in Varanasi when I arrive on Sunday/ Monday.

Agra Fort was a pleasant if a trifle hot place to spend a couple of hours. It is mosque like and peaceful with a good view of the river Yamuna and the Taj which really does change colour in the sun.

Leaving Rishikesh

I left the ashram quite easily (in terms of the wrist) on Saturday 9th August. I took part in the neti cleaning with the rest of the class asit actually clears out the nasal passages quite well. I don't miss the ashram food one bit. In fact they served pilau rice with extra nuts!! I left about half ten with the help of Kodama asnd Ryo. The bus to Dehra Dun was fine. There isn't much to see and do in Dun really it was for convenience in getting the train for a 400km journey to Agra. Once the ticket was purchased, I wandered around the markets which were quite interesting. The lodge I stayed in was near the station, Indian, very cheap but quite nice. There was a pesky son or two but nothing too annoying. On Monday I went to Mussoorie which is a former British hill station. That was a great bus journey as we climbed 6000ft or so. Due to low cloud, I was unable to see the Himalayas...typical...but I had a lovely day all the same.

I left the Dun at 6am on Tuesday 12th August. This was a sleeper train where myself and an 80 year old woman were given upper bunks. We both slept on the lower bunks - very comfortable - until the couple who had been allocated the beds arrived. Rather than kick up a stink, we shared the beds to sit on; they fed and watered me with chai tea all the way to Agra. At Agra station, the couple's daughter and family met me off the train, helped me with my case and drove me to my current guesthouse!

Mornings are difficult

I've had mixed emotions every morning. On Sunday, I was heading to Delhi and then Heathrow and today, I'm not so sure. I have posted over 3 kilos of clothes back to the UK !!! You can tell I have never been to this country before. That should help with the weight of my suitcase. I had to take my clothes to a tailor who sewed them into a box. Then I went to the post office where I sat with the post master in the office behind the counter.

I've been asked to have my photograph taken with a very smiley Indian female in Punjabi dress and stopped in the street by about 10 women enquiring about the cast. Whilst the rickshaw wallahs wouldn't give a group of us a good price on Monday, you do meet simple kindness and sympathy everyday too.

If I move on, which I probably will, I will head to Dehra Dun which is higher up in the hills than Rishikesh, to catch the Ujjain express for the Taj Mahal in Agra. This leaves on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. If I can avoid Delhi, I will.

30 days (and a fractured wrist) in India

Sorry for the delay in keeping in contact. My Saturday just gone past was an eventful one beginning with not so strenuous yoga and a good hour of neti (which involves clearing nasal passages with salt water). The days have been hot recently but the air is always cleared with a downpour before it heats up again. I was taking things easy, had had lunch etc and decided to take my rubbish out to the rubbish bin outside the block. I wasn't running or moving too quickly.....and was shocked when I realised I was falling back and about to hit my head. Naturally,  I put my hand out/down but didn't realise how quick I had actually fallen until the damage was done. A Russian chap who had just arrived at the ashram was over like a shot and ran to the office. My little Japanese friend Kodama was behind me and with me all the time but bless her, she was so upset that she couldn't speak until later in the evening when she cried like a baby.

Basically, I've been taken care of really well. By the time the doctor arrived, some of the other girls at the ashram had kept me talking and Anna, a medical student at Sheffield, came with me to the hospital and all other visits since then. The hospital was basic to say the least, but very kind, positive and efficient treatment given. The restructure of my wrist was not so pleasant...

I ended up visiting an orthopedic surgeon yesterday, with an Indian chap from the ashram and Anna. Again, really efficient with an x-ray taken and the temporary cast removed. A fair amount of manipulation which wasn't half as bad as Saturday. My new cast is very white and hard as rock but I feel a lot more calm and relaxed and my appetite is improving. Please don't worry. Obviously, I'm missing the yoga like crazy however I'm only here until Friday or Saturday at the latest. Cast is on for six weeks.