The Tourist Rest House on Katcherie Road in Agra is very nice. From the outside, you wouldn't think so but the rooms are arranged around a leafy courtyard where you have freshly prepared food. My room on the first night was small and I changed on Wednesday. As for my birthday, I couldn't bear the thought of moving too much so I chilled and stayed close to the guest house. I took my punjabi dress material to a tailors' in Sadar Bazaar where they agreed to make two outfits for 200 rupees (roughly 83 rupees to the pound) by 10am the next day!
Very satisfied with this, I contined to make plans i.e sight-seeing, for Thursday. I had something to eat with 'lil' Daniel Rowe from Worksop. Daniel has been travelling for 10 months and India is his last stop. Fortunately for him, he decided to come along with myself at 5.30am the next day.
Foreign tourists were the only ones to queue so early and judging the crowds at 9.30am... it was well worth getting up for. Overall, it has a lovely impact but the building looks so much smaller than you think! It was lovely to have someone to chat to and wander around the Taj with and also to share the hassle with. We stayed for about 3 hours in the grounds but it was worth it - we pay 760 rs where Indian nationals pay 20rs.
For breakfast we walked through the Taj Ganj ( old town) to a recommended hotel called Sheela where I wolfed down honey toast, cheese omelette, a mango lassi and a pot of chai tea. Following this we took a rickety rickshaw to Agra Fort - hilarious not. The 'driver' was about 90 but could fairly cycle however when he started to free wheel on a well tarmacked road, and we picked up speed...mum will know exactly what I was thinking. Then he turned round to Daniel and invited him to cycle the rickshaw, which he did accordingly. Brilliant! The Indians passing by on motor bikes and whatever loved it !
Back at the guest house we chilled with a fizzy drink. Later I collected my punjabi dresses with very baggy trousers, washed more clothes and myself, and after a pleasant dinner with Daniel and a french mademoiselle, I had an early night. I must say that I have had the best rest since I arrived in India but it is going into week 4 and I feel more acclimatised.
Thanks for all the emails mum - I may or may not email tomorrow but if not, will try in Varanasi when I arrive on Sunday/ Monday.
Agra Fort was a pleasant if a trifle hot place to spend a couple of hours. It is mosque like and peaceful with a good view of the river Yamuna and the Taj which really does change colour in the sun.
I remember Agra well - the Taj Mahal certainly is impressive! When I was in India, I also got a very old rickshaw man, but he was on foot. At one point, going up a very slight uphill, I got out and pushed. Mind you, I am a little bigger than you :)
When I was in Varanasi, (or Veryskanki as I called it), the power kept clicking off. We didn't have aircon, but a "water fan" (which is basically a fan which draws air in over a little pond of water). Given that on some days it was 47 degrees, when the power clicked off, it got very hot, VERY quickly! Some genius also decided to keep the shower water on the roof, so no possibility of a cold shower either!
Great to read your blog - hope you enjoy Varanasi... what out for the cows in the narrow streets ;)
Posted by: Sam | 08/15/2008 at 05:52 PM
Glad you've decided to stay in India and not travel home early. Life seems to be going well again.
Happy Birthday, by the way.
Joe
Posted by: Joe Dale | 08/16/2008 at 03:02 PM
All sounds good and the food sounds quite nice. Hope you got plenty of pics of the Taj - I'm sure you did! Wonder what Calcutta has in store ... All same as here except for the really heavy rain. Dublin Road and Riverside badly flooded to point where families are in local hotels. Still nobody has pinpointed the new white elephant Riverside Mill as a contributary factor!! Anyway easi on the Tai green chai ching latte lassis when ordering and enjoi last week of freedom!! X
Posted by: Lynne | 08/23/2008 at 02:38 PM