After another fairly epic train journey into India's holiest city, I arrived with much relief onto a packed and very warm Varanasi train station. I lugged my suitcase up stairs, across a long footbridge and probably over a hundred set of toes...and got to the tourist office as advised by all good guidebooks. A female monk kept an eye on my case as I sought info on hotels in an office next door, where they gave me so much information I was confused.com ! Returning to the main office, I relayed this to the South American nun/monk who recommended her hotel - she showed her key which was legitimate so I thought "Why not?" Again, avoiding the touts who swarm the stations, we walked away from the train station and picked an auto-rickshaw to the Hotel Ajaya in an area called Lahurabir. It was fine and certainly the staff were very kind and courteous on my arrival and throughout my stay!
Varanasi wasn't or hasn't been what I expected. It is much larger and in the humidity and with constant hassle, I found it very hard work at times. On the Sunday, I wandered around my local area and even checked another hotel which was nicer but didn't have the same atmosphere. I did have a delicious vegetable curry and a mixed fruit lassi at a very reasonable price.
On Monday 18th, I rose fairly early and walked into Godaulia, the old town area of Varanasi. I had a lovely curried potato breakfast with two delicious cups of milky masala tea at a recommended cafe. After this I walked to one of the most popular ghats, Dashaswamedh, which was much smaller than I expected with the Ganges very high on the ghat steps. There were no funerals or burning pyres despite what the annoying touts tell you, so I wandered around the dark and atmospheric lanes of Godaulia, in search of the Golden Temple - Vishwanath. After an exhausting hour, I came across the even smaller lanes of the Golden Temple where one of the many police made it clear I wouln't be entering with my rucksack....I purchased some bangles for myself and my Dad (no, just kidding!), for Lynne and mum, then desperately went in search for sugared drinks.
In short, I did too much walking this day. In the late afternoon, I walked to the station to get my ticket for Calcutta. I met two Japanese chaps who had travelled on the same train as me from Agra....two power cuts and a very helpful ticket purchase later, I left the station, took a wrong turning, got lost and in the middle of another power-cut, took a cycle rickshaw ride back to the hotel - yet another bumpy ride after which my arm was glad of the rest.
Tuesday, I was exhausted and only ventured out in the early afternoon to go to the Hindu University museum which houses a small but beautiful collection of Indian art. A very considerate rickshaw driver took me to Asi ghat where I had a lovely view of Ganga and there was a real feel for the place which Dashaswamedh didn't have - peaceful and calm. I ate at a recommended restaurant (Vaatika), located at the top of the ghat steps and overlooking the Ganges - green pepper pizza, lemon tea and apple pie with ice-cream - absolutely delicious. I also had some interesting company from a baby rat....with it's momma....I was on my feet and ready to run, but it's probably normal beside such a polluted river!!!! They were scurrying amongst the many plant pots which were placed around the terrace.
It started to rain on Tuesday evening around 8pm and it thundered down the whole night and most of Wednesday morning. This was nice for another lazy morning and when I headed out in the afternoon, I soon found out that the old town was flooded in parts with shop keepers drying out their tiny little shops. The highlight of my day was a trip to a hotel complex for foreigners - a lovely haven with internet, Baskin Robbins, swimming pool etc. I had a lovely Indian meal - vegetable sizzler with a pot of Tetley before heading back to the hotel.
On the Thursday I whiled the day away quite easily with some photos, bookshop browsing and eating in recommended places (my new catch-word). The hotel manager wanted to have a good talk before I left for the station, wanting to know what I did and how much I earned etc. Being a teacher gets a lot of respect in India...
My Vibhuti express was delayed by just over an hour and praise to the station police who really take care of foreign travellers both on arrival and departure from the station. A porter carried my case this time onto the train where I settled eventually and chatted with a lovely Indian female from Kolkata. She said her name was Nikon and certainly her English was superb so it was really good to discuss her country and different places that I had been to. I travelled in 3AC, so 3-tiered beds with air-conditioning and had yet another really comfortable train journey in India.
Comments