42 days (and curried breakfasts) in India

First 24 hours in Kolkata

We should have arrived into Kolkata at 8am on Friday 22nd but it was around 11.30am with Nikon being late for work. The train station is a huge, handsome red building with a very easy walk to the pre-paid taxi rank. Absolute bedlam but I managed to get a lift to the YWCA after an interesting journey across the Howrah bridge and along wide roads and streets - Kolkata resembles a city, unlike Delhi.

At the YWCA, I was shown to a quiet room beside another lady on the ground floor. Off the street, it is arranged around a tennis courtyard and much of the noise is blocked out by trees and private housing. I sorted my belongings, money and passport on my bed anf then went to a cafe around the corner for an expensive brunch. I returned to my room to change and wash and before I headed out to Mother House, I placed most of cash in my suitcase.

I walked (surprise,surprise) to MH on AJC Bose Road, which is located in a pretty poor area of the city. Normally on Friday's the House is open but the nuns had something on this particular afternoon. Sweaty and sweaty, I headed back to Park Street via a church to get some relief from the sun. I washed my clothes and made tea and soup back at my room.

Breakfast is included in the price, simple but fine - 3 slices of bread, butter, jam, a banana, an egg and tea. I headed to MH again which was open but only to look around. The display on Mother Theresa's life is fascinating and it is quite something to look at her sandals, her saree and other personal belongings. The room which holds her tomb is right on the main road so it's noisey but apt for someone who spent her time with these people.

The next registration for volunteers was today, Monday at 3pm but I didn't go due to intention and circumstances. I don't feel I need anymore "tests" before I leave India. Anyway, I purchased a tin of milk powder for a street kid outside the House and had something chucked at me further along the road as I was making my way back to Park Street.

I had a leisurely lunch in my room and was contemplating some more, just a little more, retail therapy, when I decided to check my money which I quickly discovered wasn't there. So, I've broken my wrist for the first time and had a fair amount of money stolen from me for thr first time. I'm not sure when it happened but I feel it may have been on my first day perhaps when I was popping into the loo which is next door...I've had my case open...but someone knew where that money was.

The owners were distressed, especially for the reputation of the place. I couldn't quite understand the security man's interest in this, I have my suspicions...I've managed to withdraw money today but what a pallava it's been. Roll on Friday!

Okay, over and out for another session. Joe, I've managed to get into Typepad with no bother as you will have gathered!

Varanasi backdated

After another fairly epic train journey into India's holiest city, I arrived with much relief onto a packed and very warm Varanasi train station. I lugged my suitcase up stairs, across a long footbridge and probably over a hundred set of toes...and got to the tourist office as advised by all good guidebooks. A female monk kept an eye on my case as I sought info on hotels in an office next door, where they gave me so much information I was confused.com ! Returning to the main office, I relayed this to the South American nun/monk who recommended her hotel - she showed her key which was legitimate so I thought "Why not?" Again, avoiding the touts who swarm the stations, we walked away from the train station and picked an auto-rickshaw to the Hotel Ajaya in an area called Lahurabir. It was fine and certainly the staff were very kind and courteous on my arrival and throughout my stay!

Varanasi wasn't or hasn't been what I expected. It is much larger and in the humidity and with constant hassle, I found it very hard work at times. On the Sunday, I wandered around my local area and even checked another hotel which was nicer but didn't have the same atmosphere. I did have a delicious vegetable curry and a mixed fruit lassi at a very reasonable price.

On Monday 18th, I rose fairly early and walked into Godaulia, the old town area of Varanasi. I had a lovely curried potato breakfast with two delicious cups of milky masala tea at a recommended cafe. After this I walked to one of the most popular ghats, Dashaswamedh, which was much smaller than I expected with the Ganges very high on the ghat steps. There were no funerals or burning pyres despite what the annoying touts tell you, so I wandered around the dark and atmospheric lanes of Godaulia, in search of the Golden Temple - Vishwanath. After an exhausting hour, I came across the even smaller lanes of the Golden Temple where one of the many police made it clear I wouln't be entering with my rucksack....I purchased some bangles for myself and my Dad (no, just kidding!), for Lynne and mum, then desperately went in search for sugared drinks.

In short, I did too much walking this day. In the late afternoon, I walked to the station to get my ticket for Calcutta. I met two Japanese chaps who had travelled on the same train as me from Agra....two power cuts and a very helpful ticket purchase later, I left the station, took a wrong turning, got lost and in the middle of another power-cut, took a cycle rickshaw ride back to the hotel - yet another bumpy ride after which my arm was  glad of the rest.

Tuesday, I was exhausted and only ventured out in the early afternoon to go to the Hindu University museum which houses a small but beautiful collection of Indian art. A very considerate rickshaw driver took me to Asi ghat where I had a lovely view of Ganga and there was a real feel for the place which Dashaswamedh didn't have - peaceful and calm. I ate at a recommended restaurant (Vaatika), located at the top of the ghat steps and overlooking the Ganges - green pepper pizza, lemon tea and apple pie with ice-cream - absolutely delicious. I also had some interesting company from a baby rat....with it's momma....I was on my feet and ready to run, but it's probably normal beside such a polluted river!!!! They were scurrying amongst the many plant pots which were placed around the terrace.

It started to rain on Tuesday evening around 8pm and it thundered down the whole night and most of Wednesday morning. This was nice for another lazy morning and when I headed out in the afternoon, I soon found out that the old town was flooded in parts with shop keepers drying out their tiny little shops. The highlight of my day was a trip to a hotel complex for foreigners - a lovely haven with internet, Baskin Robbins, swimming pool etc. I had a  lovely Indian meal - vegetable sizzler with a pot of Tetley before heading back to the hotel.

On the Thursday I whiled the day away quite easily with some photos, bookshop browsing and eating in recommended places (my new catch-word). The hotel manager wanted to have a good talk before I left for the station, wanting to know what I did and how much I earned etc. Being a teacher gets a lot of respect in India...

My Vibhuti express was delayed by just over an hour and praise to the station police who really take care of foreign travellers both on arrival and departure from the station. A porter carried my case this time onto the train where I settled eventually and  chatted with a lovely Indian female from Kolkata. She said her name was Nikon and certainly her English was superb so it was really good to discuss her country and different places that I had been to. I travelled in 3AC, so 3-tiered beds with air-conditioning and had yet another really comfortable train journey in India.

The Taj Mahal

The Tourist Rest House on Katcherie Road in Agra is very nice. From the outside, you wouldn't think so but the rooms are arranged around a leafy courtyard where you have freshly prepared food. My room on the first night was small and I changed on Wednesday. As for my birthday, I couldn't bear the thought of moving too much so I chilled and stayed close to the guest house. I took my punjabi dress material  to  a tailors' in Sadar Bazaar where they agreed to make two outfits for 200 rupees (roughly 83 rupees to the pound) by 10am the next day!

Very satisfied with this, I contined to make plans i.e sight-seeing, for Thursday. I had something to eat with 'lil' Daniel Rowe from Worksop. Daniel has been travelling for 10 months and India is his last stop. Fortunately for him, he decided to come along with myself at 5.30am the next day.

Foreign tourists were the only ones to queue so early and judging the crowds  at 9.30am... it was well worth getting up for. Overall, it has a lovely impact but the building looks so much smaller than you think! It was lovely to have someone to chat to and wander around the Taj with and also to share the hassle with. We stayed for about 3 hours in the grounds but it was worth it - we pay 760 rs where Indian nationals pay 20rs.

For breakfast we walked through the Taj Ganj ( old town) to a recommended hotel called Sheela where I wolfed down honey toast, cheese omelette, a mango lassi and a pot of chai tea. Following this we took a rickety rickshaw to Agra Fort - hilarious not. The 'driver' was about 90 but could fairly cycle however when he started to free wheel on a well tarmacked road, and we picked up speed...mum will know exactly what I was thinking. Then he turned round to Daniel and invited him to cycle the rickshaw, which he did accordingly. Brilliant! The Indians passing by on motor bikes and whatever loved it !

Back at the guest house we chilled with a fizzy drink. Later I collected my punjabi dresses with very baggy trousers, washed more clothes and myself, and after a pleasant dinner with Daniel and a french mademoiselle, I had an early night. I must say that I have had the best rest since I arrived in India but it is going into week 4 and I feel more acclimatised.

Thanks for all the emails mum - I may or may not email tomorrow but if not, will try in Varanasi when I arrive on Sunday/ Monday.

Agra Fort was a pleasant if a trifle hot place to spend a couple of hours. It is mosque like and peaceful with a good view of the river Yamuna and the Taj which really does change colour in the sun.

Leaving Rishikesh

I left the ashram quite easily (in terms of the wrist) on Saturday 9th August. I took part in the neti cleaning with the rest of the class asit actually clears out the nasal passages quite well. I don't miss the ashram food one bit. In fact they served pilau rice with extra nuts!! I left about half ten with the help of Kodama asnd Ryo. The bus to Dehra Dun was fine. There isn't much to see and do in Dun really it was for convenience in getting the train for a 400km journey to Agra. Once the ticket was purchased, I wandered around the markets which were quite interesting. The lodge I stayed in was near the station, Indian, very cheap but quite nice. There was a pesky son or two but nothing too annoying. On Monday I went to Mussoorie which is a former British hill station. That was a great bus journey as we climbed 6000ft or so. Due to low cloud, I was unable to see the Himalayas...typical...but I had a lovely day all the same.

I left the Dun at 6am on Tuesday 12th August. This was a sleeper train where myself and an 80 year old woman were given upper bunks. We both slept on the lower bunks - very comfortable - until the couple who had been allocated the beds arrived. Rather than kick up a stink, we shared the beds to sit on; they fed and watered me with chai tea all the way to Agra. At Agra station, the couple's daughter and family met me off the train, helped me with my case and drove me to my current guesthouse!

Mornings are difficult

I've had mixed emotions every morning. On Sunday, I was heading to Delhi and then Heathrow and today, I'm not so sure. I have posted over 3 kilos of clothes back to the UK !!! You can tell I have never been to this country before. That should help with the weight of my suitcase. I had to take my clothes to a tailor who sewed them into a box. Then I went to the post office where I sat with the post master in the office behind the counter.

I've been asked to have my photograph taken with a very smiley Indian female in Punjabi dress and stopped in the street by about 10 women enquiring about the cast. Whilst the rickshaw wallahs wouldn't give a group of us a good price on Monday, you do meet simple kindness and sympathy everyday too.

If I move on, which I probably will, I will head to Dehra Dun which is higher up in the hills than Rishikesh, to catch the Ujjain express for the Taj Mahal in Agra. This leaves on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. If I can avoid Delhi, I will.

30 days (and a fractured wrist) in India

Sorry for the delay in keeping in contact. My Saturday just gone past was an eventful one beginning with not so strenuous yoga and a good hour of neti (which involves clearing nasal passages with salt water). The days have been hot recently but the air is always cleared with a downpour before it heats up again. I was taking things easy, had had lunch etc and decided to take my rubbish out to the rubbish bin outside the block. I wasn't running or moving too quickly.....and was shocked when I realised I was falling back and about to hit my head. Naturally,  I put my hand out/down but didn't realise how quick I had actually fallen until the damage was done. A Russian chap who had just arrived at the ashram was over like a shot and ran to the office. My little Japanese friend Kodama was behind me and with me all the time but bless her, she was so upset that she couldn't speak until later in the evening when she cried like a baby.

Basically, I've been taken care of really well. By the time the doctor arrived, some of the other girls at the ashram had kept me talking and Anna, a medical student at Sheffield, came with me to the hospital and all other visits since then. The hospital was basic to say the least, but very kind, positive and efficient treatment given. The restructure of my wrist was not so pleasant...

I ended up visiting an orthopedic surgeon yesterday, with an Indian chap from the ashram and Anna. Again, really efficient with an x-ray taken and the temporary cast removed. A fair amount of manipulation which wasn't half as bad as Saturday. My new cast is very white and hard as rock but I feel a lot more calm and relaxed and my appetite is improving. Please don't worry. Obviously, I'm missing the yoga like crazy however I'm only here until Friday or Saturday at the latest. Cast is on for six weeks.

Sunday

I'm glad it's Sunday, which is a rest day,aside from rising for 6.30am to clean the yoga hall. My first curried breakfast was served this morning which I was unable to finish nevermind touch, due to a delicate tummy and overactive bowels !! I feel okay. I've taken some immodium and had a second breakfast outside the ashram so I've eaten something at least. It makes me wonder if there is a bug of some kind going around as everyday, at least one person or another has been feeling dodgey or not the best. With the amount of exercise we're doing also, all the toxins and yuck are being expelled from the body which is good but it has it's side effects too. 

Plan for today is to take it easy and enjoy. Joe, I haven't quite got round to loading images and using Skype yet. Not sure if the internet place I'm in at the moment would be the best for this anyway. Hope everyone is well. x

Yoga Niketan Ashram

I have literally lost track of time which is really good in many ways but as I recall, I arrived at the ashram on Friday morning around 10am. After a quick breakfast at the hotel, one of the workers at the hotel carried my suitcase and rucksack most of the way there - it's quite a walk and quite a few of my things will have to be posted back home before I leave. Carrying weight here is arduous.

The ashram is good. Situated on a hill overlooking Swargashram, it is usually a peaceful place but not this month with the 2 million extra revellers in town !!! I still can't quite catch the name of the deity being celebrated but it's a major celebration with people travelling from all over India and even Nepal to walk around yelling "Bolla bolla bolla" at all hours of the morning.

My accommodation is basic but okay. We're in blocks of 3 floors and I'm on the top floor with a genki Japanese female from Tokyo and a wealthy Chinese lass from Shanghai. There must be about 20 odd people staying at the ashram from various arts and parts. Nobody seems to have liked Delhi.

Food is "sattvic" i.e. it is simple, unvaried, strictly vegetarian or vegan and unspiced. Yellow tends to be the most common colour so I was quite excited to have tomatoes yesterday evening. Water is cold and filtered so it saves me from purifying a litre everyday. There is hot water in the bathroom and a fan which runs at about 100 miles an hour. 

The blocks are barricaded on each floor with metal mesh - monkey protection. I'm relaxing a little more at the thought of the monkeys but we appear to have a red-faced variety which is cheeky and quite aggressive. I was unable to go to the library for about 15 minutes yesterday as one had found it's way up to my floor and proceeded to push and sit at the gate!!

More importantly though the yoga is rather strenous but excellent. We have it easy in the West. The yoga hall is lovely, spacious and carpeted but the teachers don't believe in having the fans running here....so it becomes extremely hot and humid. However, by the time you are a third of the way through your practice your body is much more flexible. We have two lessons a day, one at 6.30 am and a second at 5pm, for roughly one hour. The teachers are young , extremely flexible and rather handsome.

Getting to Reeshikesh

I lay late on my second day here despite the fact that India awakens at 5.30am prompt. I only managed a small breakfast of cereal bar, my tea and banana. To be honest, with the heat I didn't feel like having that much. I had help leaving the hotel with the manager waving down a rickshaw to take me to the "bus station". On arrival there, some young fella pointed to a riotously painted bus as the one to Rishikesh and on asking the driver if he was going, he told me no. So I waited in the shade and next thing several people are yelling "Rishikesh, Rishikesh" and pointing at Beatle influenced bus. Myself, two Japanese females and a few Indians managed to get on. And these buses are not the most modern of things. We trundled out of Haridwar and stopped....to be told that it wasn't going to Rishikesh. So off we get and thankfully a young Indian chap stayed with myself and the two Japanese females and we took an auto rickshaw all the way to Rishikesh. Mad !

Rishikesh is bigger than I thought - the maps in the guidebook are deceitful. As the Japanese girls had similiar plans to myself we travelled by rickshaw and by foot to a good hotel, quite near to the Maharishi ashram where the Beatles lived in 1968. It was absolutely exhausting, but I changed, washed and explored the town a little having my first meal in a place called Chottiwala. I have decided on a strict ashram on the other side of the Ganges from Swarg Ashram where I am today and will head there tomorrow. I was too tired this morning.

I am being really careful about food and water and cleaning my hands. Lunch was lovely today at the Madras Cafe, again recommended by Rough Guide.

It is warm and misty and the rain is stunningly fantastic. Namaste x

Heathrow to Delhi to Risikesh

I have actually forgotten which day it is. This is day three but slowly but surely, I'm getting to grips with India. There is a lot to get to grips with.

My journey and flight to Heathrow was absolutely fine with no problems and no terrorists. To be honest the flight wasn't long enough because by the time we had landed I felt ready for bed. That, accompanied with the heat and humidity made Day 1 a long one.

Following Julia Reynold's advice (a teacher from Nodehill), I took a prepaid booked taxi from the airport to New Delhi train station. Delhi is not what I expected for a capital city of such a huge country. The outskirts of the city around the airport itself are still in the very early stages of development; it seems common to have either half-finished and half-ruined buildings everywhere filled with rubbish and children playing cricket on tiny strips of land nearby.

Anyway, on my arrival at the train station I was duped big time and despite what the Rough Guide says, I took an auto rickshaw to an agency 5 minutes away, to apparently buy a ticket. They couldn't do that of course but offered a taxi service at an extortionate price. So, in the heat and at 7.30 am I walked away, followed by another tout and fortunately found a kind rickshaw, back to the hellish station. And promptly, as the guidebooks advise, went to the Tourist office upstairs, and bought said train ticket to Haridwar before 8.50am ! I stayed in the air-conditioned office until my train arrived at 3.25pm by which time it was obscenely warm. I couldn't face lugging my case around in the heat - travel is efficient but hard work here.

I met three lovely French chaps from Nice on the train. They were only spending three weeks here but had managed a very good tour of northern India and were heading to Dehra Dun which is much further north than myself. It was really good to have a chat in French. The chap next to me was lovely and didn't rate the food much but had lots of advice and lovely photos. One of his friends was having a very hard time with the whole thing. I already know that you either like/love this place or hate it; I don't reckon there is an in-between feeling.

My first night in India was at Haridwar, 24km from Rishikesh. There is a train link between the two but it is easier by road. With my morning experience in Delhi, I successfully ignored the touts and made my way to a hotel of my choice right by the station. Further to this, there is a major festival taking place in Rishikesh, so people(men mostly), dressed in vivid orange are worshipping or celebrating everywhere; the towns and stations are packed.

I had a good first night in an air-conditioned room with a much needed shower and a cup of tea made with my travel kettle !